Wednesday, 28 April 2010

Guide: “In Ghana when in rains the ground gets wet”, Anna: “ Yes in Germany the same”

Dear all, here is this week’s blog! Enjoy!

FOOD
I start this blog entry with last Sunday the 18th April and the best breakfast I have yet been fortunate to have in Ghana! This was thanks to Anna who went to Germany for two weeks and returned with many, many goodies for us. Her offerings included nutella (three jars of!), homemade jam from her garden, white chocolate cappuchino, salami, REAL coffee and tons of gummy bears and Haribo that aren’t available in Ghana! It has been a most enjoyable week of coffee and sweets! On Tuesday Kattie and I asked for pancakes from Gladys our food lady and we both, including Anna, enjoyed them with LOTS of nutella!

WORK
Last week I spent more time in house 3 than in the school, as I quickly realized after a Monday and Tuesday of no lessons that something was afoot and after asking Auntie E. whether the school was on holiday (most Ghana school children have a month off but the school has stayed open) I received the reply that they were “resting the children’s minds” to start up again school after a week of this mind resting. Of course this is utter rubbish; it’s not as if the children’s minds are really stretched as it is but I let it go and instead had some really enjoyable afternoons in house 3 with the kiddies! Thankfully, this week the school is back to a normal-ish routine, although for some absurd reason they have been practicing songs and a dance for their graduation that isn’t until July? It’s quite cute, but a little boring to just watch, although it does mean spending time playing with the little ones!

This boy is Joy. When I take my flipflops off to sit on the mat he totally loves to play with them!

I truly, truly love the children. Now I know them so much better and I know their little personalities! When Anna and I are walking to the house the children see us through the mosquito net and start chanting “ANNA, ANNA” and then suddenly last week there started up “SALLY SALLY SALLY” and it was great because after endless repetition of “no, my name is not obruni it is SALLY” they finally get it! I actually heard one child correcting another telling him that I was Sally, not obruni! Success! Mostly I spend my time at the house being shadowed by Felicia who is the most adorable thing with her little bug eyes although it is dangerous to pick her up because putting her down again causes screaming and she has the most ear splitting scream ever. Sometimes, however, I can’t resist giving her a cuddle and playing with her even if it means getting completely hot and sweaty from carrying her around.

After this play time it is time for the children to eat and I help Anna feed the two disabled girls, normally feeding Ezuma, and then after the other children finish eating it is a game of trying to avoid their sticky fingers (they get the fish after eating and love to show me and then try to hug me or pat my lap/shoulder) and endless repetition of “go wash your hands!”. Try as I might I still sometimes come home with two yellow hand-shaped patches on my back or legs! Thankfully, food is followed by bath time and suddenly the little compound is full of naked children running around dry or otherwise soaked! It is my job then to grab as many as possible with towels and attempt to dress them again. Easier said than done…

I love them!

THE WEEKEND 24th-25th : Motorbikes, monkeys and mud!

On Saturday Anna, Kattie and I decided to head to a village called Tafi Atome around 3.5hours tro tro ride from Accra where they have a monkey sanctuary. After an uneventful tro tro ride we got off at a junction called Logba Alekpeti which was 5km from the village… this distance we covered by motorbikes! The road was relatively smooth dirt track with only the occasional tricky patch, but still it was a crazy experience of fear and excitement and trying to lean with my driver! Once we arrived at the village we got our room and then decided to visit the neighbouring Kente weaving village. I had heard that it was possible to hire bikes to visit but after asking at the office we were told that the “rain would catch us”. We were unimpressed by this (envisioning one of the short downpours we had experienced) and after discovering that the village was 15km away opted for the motorbikes again.

It was only after we set off that I thought about the rain, but even then I was concentrating on the road! After a few minutes it did, however, come to my attention that the sky was getting very black! Suddenly our drivers really kicked into gear and we went A LO T faster! I have no idea how the drivers managed to negotiate the road and avoid things like potholes and stones when the wind was coming so fast at our faces making my eyes stream behind my sunglasses! The wind started to go crazy and I have this image of Anna’s back on the motorbike in front of me with the grass blowing and trees leaning with the force of the wind and leaves flying everywhere and the dust just swirling above the road! We were right behind Anna’s bike and the dust was coming at our faces and I did fear for my safety as I could hardly see a thing and I wasn’t trying to drive a motorbike! Eventually the rain came, not h eavy at first but very, very hard on my skin. Thankfully, it was shortly after this that we arrived at Tafi Abuife the weaving village and after climbing off and looking at Anna and Ka ttie I discovered that we were all brown with dust! The rain really started to pour then and we took shelter inside the store room next to the village shop.

And waited.

(above) the village after the rain!


The rain didn’t let up for 35 minutes or so and we just sat and wondered if it would ever end! Eventually we went outside and discovered that the ground was waterlogged and the dirt was now a thick, sticky mud that was almost impossible to walk in without losing a flip-flop! Eventually, we met the guide of the village and were shown around to where two large shed type buildings was the working space of many weavers, although many more work in their homes. It was very noisy and they were extremely quick and skilled workers. Our guide told us that the “ke” of kente means to open and the “te” to tighten. Everyone in the village weaves, male or female, and it is only recently that the village has started adapting to the tourist trade with help from Tafi Atome and some Peace Corps volunteers.

After the tour there was more waiting for the rain to slow during this time our guide asked lots of questions about our countries such as “where do you buy food?” and “can you go outside when it rains?”. I did try to explain about supermarkets but how could he possibly conceive of a place as big as his village?!

The way back was scarier than the way there, although we did go slower, because the track was now mud which was very deep in some places and there were many holes that had to be avoided. I felt the back of the bike slip many, many times and the more I looked at my driver the younger he looked! However, he did promise not to kill me which was reassuring, and we got back safely! On our return, however, we discovered that the storm had been extremely destructive and that trees had actually been blown over in the storm (which we had been riding around on motorbikes in…). Fences and houses had also been seriously damaged! Mad.

The next morning at 6am we went to see the monkeys! They were sooooooooo cute and peeled the bananas in our hands to get the fruit so nicely. Apparently there are four groups in the forest of around eighty in each and it was nice to see that the villagers really liked the monkeys too and were pointing and laughing at them with us. Afterwards we went for a walk in the forest and saw more of the cute little monkeys as well as more storm damage.








After breakfast we had the bright idea to walk back to the road (5km remember!) and although it was only 9am it was extremely hot hot hot and we were so glad to see the road when we finally got there. It was, however, lovely to walk past all the mud houses and the little communities with everyone on their bicycles and if we all have silly tan lines on our shoulders then it was worth it!

Tafi Atome

Shocked at the storm damage and me in the forest

















And so that concludes this week’s blog! I hear England is getting some good weather so I hope everyone is enjoying it! It is, of course, boiling here and we have been experiencing some annoying power failures but joyful running water which makes me more and more everyday into such a simple creature! Food, power and water are my main preoccupations. The food thing isn’t much different from in England, however!


I leave you with this final picture that we totally loved from near my house. Anyone fancy some eggs?!

Lots of love, Sal xxxxxxxxxxxxx

Sunday, 18 April 2010

Who is Ghana Sal?!


So we in the house have been recently wondering about how much we will change when we get back home, but I've since been thinking not about what I'll be like when I'm home but what I'm like here!

  • Ghana Sal is always dirty. Here, she is constantly washing she feet only for them to be mucky five minutes later. And, apart from the feet obsession, she has never cared less about her appearance! Her hair has never been curlier, her eyebrows have never received less attention and her facial regime (admittedly only ever reasonable) is sporadic at best and non existent at worst! The only things Ghana Sal remembers to do with any regularity is brush her teeth and take her malaria tablets!
  • Ghana Sal now has a mixture of German/Danish/Ghanaian English sayings, words and phrases mixed into her speech. Whoever said that English is the national language of Ghana was extremely, extremely wrong!
  • Ghana Sal says "movie" instead of "film" and "light out" instead of "power out".
  • Ghana Sal is extremely adept at showering in one third of a bucket of water. If she needs to wash her hair too then she simply leans over the bucket so that the water falls back in again.
  • Ghana Sal experiences pure joy when the water is running which allows her to a) fill up the tubs b) wash the pots/her hands from the tab c) have a shower when the water comes FROM THE SHOWER HEAD
  • Like UK Sal, food makes Ghana Sal happy, only the happy-food is slightly different! Good food includes mango, cookies, jolof rice, fried rice with chicken, rice balls with groundnut soup and spaghetti (with bolognaise, but for some reason Ghana Sal misses off the bolognaise part because spaghetti from her food lady (Gladys) comes with nothing else)! Unhappy foods include yams because they are too boring, meat because it is like chewing leather and is most likely goat, and fish because the bones are impossibly small and impossible to remove).
  • Ghana Sal misses the cold, and wearing a jumper, which is definitely different! Rain (when nice and safe inside) is welcome because it means the weather may be cooler if only for a little while! Being somewhere with air conditioning (the internet cafe) is the ultimately luxury and the idea of a fridge and a fan in the house is like imagining the impossible and most unobtainable!
  • Ghana Sal plays A LOT of solitaire and for someone who whilst in England listens to very little music has a surprising addiction to her lovely ipod (with the solitaire and lots of movies!)
  • Ghana Sal considers 10pm a late bedtime and waking up at 8am as a massive achievement in sleeping!
  • Ghana Sal knows how to use skype. UK Sal did not have a clue. On the other hand, Ghana Sal has never facebooked or emailed less!!
  • Finally, Ghana Sal is often known only as "obruni" but is making progress in this department and is now "Sally" to many of the children, although obruni still slips out with frustrating regularity!

    There are of course of some similarities!:
  • Both Sal's love fruit!
  • Both Sal's love eating!
  • Both Sal's love the sun, but one sweats and likes the shade a lot more than the other one!
  • Both Sal's find the city tiring, and love the countryside - Ghana or England!
  • Both Sal's love reading
  • Both Sal's adore watching Grey's Anatomy with her housemates! Ghana or England!


    So there ya go :) everyone in England must wear a jumper and think of me!
Love, Sal xxxxxx

Thursday, 15 April 2010

Another very visual post... :)

Dear all,


I have decided (perhaps as an act of kindness to you poor souls bored or reading my lengthy posts or prehaps because I am on Maria’s German computer and the Y and Z are the wrong way round and all punctuation is misplaced!) to make this blog a photoy one. Of course you may also be bored of my photos, but I’m taking the risk!

A little introduction may be necessary – this weekend I went to Cape Coast and Kakum National Park with a few volunteers, actually sleeping in the forest on little platform things the Saturday night. Kakum national park is famous for its canopy walk which is basically a tourist trap but pretty cool and beautiful nevertheless! Other photos I include are from the children’s home – many in fact from the afternoon work in house 3 (mixed sex, aged 3-6) I have been doing on some days. This really just entails playing with, feeding and bathing and dressing the kids and adds some nice variety! Today (Thursday) we made masks! The past two weeks at the school have been interesting as last week was holiday so they just messed around all day every day and this week bus loads of American students have been appearing every day to disrupt as they are on a “study at sea” program and are in Ghana for a week or so. The kids love it but it drives us all crazy!

I have now been in Ghana 8 weeks! I hope you enjoy the pictures. Tomorrow me and a bunch of volunteers including Anna, Lucy and Katter (and lovely Auntie Janet) are taking some of the kids to the beach!


Oh, and all the kids are sick at the moment with some type of fever - they are all boiling hot to touch and as I feel so sorry for them I just have to hug and cuddle them (today Ruth who is normally the boss of house 3 was so sad and sat on my lap for ages whimpering) ... so I fully expect to get ill soon!


Love, Sal xxxxxx





The fan ice man. They ride around on these little bikes tooting their horn so you know they are coming! They sell sweet icecream type stuff / frozen strawberry yogurt or small meat pies and sweet (ish) eggy cake type things
(above) Me and Felicia on the swings in the playground. She loves them!


Decorating the classroom - me and Kierstin (studying in Ghana)
Kids in house 3

Little Betty, who I want to take home with me!
Felicia eating her "Obama Biscuits" - they LOVE him here!
Did I mention I also want to take Felicia home with me too?!
Kiddies and me at the school after some colouring!
Yeaahhh, so they love the camera!
Me and Kattie at the beach!


Okay, so now here are some pictures from the weekend!

All us girls! Left to right: Me, Kattie, Lucy, Emily, Thea, Emma
The market from the tro tro
The beach at Cape Coast
Me in front of the Cape Coast castle
The fishing area of Cape Coast


KAKUM NATIONAL PARK: View from the canopy walk
Me on the walkway
Messing around!
Our platform! We slept in the forest on Saturday night in these platforms! We also went on a night walk with a guide which was scary but cool! The forest was sooo noisy and just full of butterflies.
On the way back to Cape Coast again we stopped at a hotel that had CROCODILES and we SAW ONE!
After Kakum we decided to go to Elmina around 20 mins away from Cape Coast to visit the old slavery castle. It was really interesting and sad, too.
Elmina is a fishing town with really beautiful boats.
Like tro tros and taxi windows with their little sayings (see previous post and the "keep on praying" tro tro!) boats clearly do too!!


On Elmina beach we met a lovely girl, Monica, selling watermelons!

And her friend, who was selling oranges!




Tuesday, 6 April 2010

Keep On Praying

Dear all,


As this weekend was the Easter weekend the school was closed for Thursday, Friday and Monday and so Katter and I decided to do a little travelling! We had planned to take a few more days off and visit Mole National Park in Northern Ghana but as we heard that it was booked up due to the holiday period. Instead, we teamed up with Katja, a Finnish volunteer who works with Katter in the nursery at the children’s home, and travelled east to the Volta Region in persuit of the hiking to the Wli waterfall (pronounced vlee). And be warned – true to form I took a lot of photos and can not resist sharing many of them with you all!


So Friday morning we left, rucksacks heavy and huge with the addition of previously neglected trainers (flipflops, or “slippers” as the Ghanaians call them, are only 1 cedi at the market), and set off to Circle where we had hoped we could catch a tro tro to Hohoe from which we could then get to the village of Wli. The first hitch in this plan was that tros to Hohoe in fact left from Tudu station not circle which resulted in a bit of walking to and fro and a lot of asking people where to go (apparently I can get to the different stations from home but not from station to station!). However we eventually got to the right station and were led to the right tro tro… a very FULL tro tro… and then so begins the very typical, very frustrating time of Africa Time. In this situation this time was characterised by of a lot of people staying to us “oh another car is coming” without this statement being realised! By this point it was 8.30am…


…By 10am we were getting a little hot; a little frustrated and a little tired from standing up in the sun. I took a lot of photos of the stations, which I include here, so that you folks in England can fully try to understand what it’s like. I particularly enjoy the tro tro with “keep on praying” written on it, which seems fitting as I’m sure most vehicles are less than safe! One tro tro I saw drive away actually had a live baby goat tied to the roof, bleeting away. The man who had somehow befriended us (he was the chief of “another car will come”) told us oohh it will lie down eventually…





After 10am a few tro tros actually did start arriving that each led to a sort of mini frenzy as everyone wanting to get to Hohoe scrambled and pushed to get to the front. At one point we were extremely well positioned for getting on (that tro tro had to go and get “fixed” but would be “back” – a fact I had trouble believing) and at another point I found myself dragged along helplessly by the small crowd of determined Ghanaians. Eventually, one tro tro did in fact start to load but unfortunately at the other side of the road/track/station bit to where we were standing. The scrum to get in was crazy – one guy actually tried to get through the back window, legs dangling (sadly, I was not quick enough with my camera)! and we gave up- like the obrunis that we are - only to be called back by one bloke who said that the guy who had been chatting to us had saved us three seats! I have no idea how he did this but on we climbed and off we bumped!




The journey took around three and a half hours, passing over the Volta Lake, and we arrived at Hohoe at 2.30pm or something like that. Immediately we were bombarded by the usual taxi drivers asking us where we were going and were told that no tro tros would go to Wli due to it being Good Friday. Eventually, with some help, we got ourselves into a shared taxi (which basically means squishing two in the front, four in the back and therefore paying less) and headed to Wli – getting caught in a rain shower in the process which resulted in the taxi driver handing me a screwdriver to do up the window!



I really loved Wli village. I am, afterall, a country girl and Wli is surrounded by beautiful hills not to mention the waterfalls that can be seen in the distance! We stayed at one of the two hotel places geared up for tourists (running water! Flushing toilets! I am ashamed to say I took a photo of this…) actually staying in a huge tent for both nights. After we had dumped our stuff we took a walk around the village and met some of the local kiddies who all say one of two things: give me pen! Or, give me photograph! We visited the falls office and had a look around the shops that are there. In fact, we got so excited by the reasonable prices that Katter and I asked the lady of one shop to shorten some shorts we have wanted for ages that are made out of patchworks of fabric. Totally cool.



Me and Katter - it wasn't that dark I have no idea why the picture is!

With some of the village children!

Me and Katja near the office


The next morning, after a breakfast hassle that ended up with us actually eating breakfast at the other hotel because we had assumed we’d be able to get something in the village, we got to the office at 8am and got our guide for the walk, whose name was Francis. The waterfalls are divided into two, the upper and lower falls. To the lower falls it is a nice, flat, 45 minute path through the forest. Francis showed us cacao and coffee trees and even a little pineapple growing too! We left the lower falls until after the upper and began the steep ascent. The total hike took around 1.5hours and was a very steep path through the forest over roots and giant rocks! We were sweating sooooooooooooo much and my tshirt and shorts were just drenched with sweat! It was hilarious and exausting all at once. Francis, our guide, walked in flip flops… (and, madly, carried a huge bunch of plantains on his head the whole way down!)


After masses of up we were rewarded with some down and finally got to the falls! There weren’t many people there and we all swam in the pool and climbed onto the black rock underneath the falls. It was so cold and brilliant! After drying off and eating biscuits Francis took us across the stream and we were in Togo, so now I have been to two African countries!


Yey!



The way down was the same as the way up so there was a lot of downhill walking to contend with which gave me a serious case of the jelly legs! We went to the lower falls which was just starting to get busy with foreign families and couples and locals splashing around and then walked back to the hotel which took foreveeerr in our tired states. Had it been that long in the morning? Surely not!


The next day we left for Hohoe around 1pm. We had wanted to leave earlier but Katter and I had to collect our shorts from the lady – who was late. Typical. After some arguing with taxi drivers we managed to negotiate a fare back that was inflated on account of our skin but not ridiculously so. We were lucky to get a tro tro back to Accra fairly quickly even though I had very little leg room and probably got half of Africa stuck in my hair after 3.5 hours with the window open next to me! We had planned to go to a monkey sanctuary on the way back but money was tight and I feel we couldn’t have done it justice in a flying visit. I hope to go to in at some point and visit some of the surrounding villages.


I include the pictures of Katter and I in our shorts. Aren’t they amazing!!?



This weekend we plan on going to Cape Coast on Friday after work with Katja and some other volunteers. We will visit Kakum National Park from there are hopefully sleep there (in the forest, or something like that ?!) on the Saturday night.

Hope all is well for everyone in England! Apologies again for the over long blog and insane quantities of photos…!


Sal xxxxxxxx